Muskelrock 2023
Located a few kilometers outside the small community of Alvesta in southern Sweden lies "Tyrolen". An old folk park named after the area in Germany which, when built early in the 1960s, must have been associated with partying and good times. Since 2009, an unusually niched hard rock festival has been arranged annually at this historical location and the following report summarizes a selection of events that took place over three days at the beginning of June 2023.
So, join us as we go to Småland to enjoy some proper Heavy-Metal!
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Text and image:
Hinsides Magazine 2023
The famous gates of Tyrolen.
Prologue
We arrive in Alvesta just after two o'clock on Thursday afternoon. On the train that took us from Gothenburg, we've seen some mandatory patched battle vests so we know we're in good company even though we did expect to see a few more obvious fellow travelers with the same destination in mind. A few years ago there were significantly more visitors from Gothenburg in particular who went to Muskelrock but that trend seems to have been fading in recent years. Instead, we have a few mixed up loose rockers with us on the tour that takes us from the west coast into the heart of Småland. Some speak Spanish and are believed to have traveled quite far for this occasion, while others presumably come from other small places around the country. Even though the train is not packed with festival attendants, the expectations for the weekend are still propagated and reinforced in the air we share. An otherwise rather bad air that surely is not missed when we´re getting off the train.
A Muskelrock representative
Outside the station, more expectant rockers have gathered and there is already a queue for the taxis that run between Alvestad and the festival area. In order to avoid unnecessary packing we have waited to buy alcohol and only after a suitable amount of the usual "Småland" cans have been purchased at Systembolaget are we ready to make our way towards Tyrolen. We decide to share a cab with two guys from Denmark and luckily we find a car quickly where we can just fit in with all our luggage. During a closer presentation, we find out that our southern friends are called Mattias and Karsten, and that they have come all the way from Copenhagen to, among other things, see Overture, which plays second to first at the festival. Only one demo has been released so far and the Danes are determined not to miss the gig.
We think a little differently and sacrifice the first gigs of the day in favor of choosing a good place to stay. When the tent is erected properly, and we have unpacked our things, we make some food and chill for a while in our new home since we are quite exhausted after being on the move all day. After some much-needed recovery, we´re ready to retrieve our wristbands and step through the gates of mighty Tyrolen.
The campsite.
Tyrolen
The park is said to have had its heyday in the 1960-70s and, like many other similar amusement facilities, gradually declined in interest during the last decades of the century. After the last dance took place, this former meeting point then stood unused for quite a few years until some creative friends and entrepreneurs saw what possibilities the place offered and bought the facility. An intervention that revived this former hub and today the park hosts a number of different cultural events organized by the association Tyrolens vänner.
One of the most appreciated and infamous annual events is undoubtedly Muskelrock which, with the exception of the covid years 2020-2021, has been held at the beginning of June since 2009. In other words, this strong festival is a well-established concept and even if this year's edition do not quite match the years around 2010-2012, the names on the poster still assure that we, as ticket holders, will experience many good live bands who all in their own way preserve the soul and survivors of the original hard rock movement.
Thursday
When we finally arrive inside the concert area, both Crazy Haze and Overture have already completed their gigs and it's time for the old Warning singer and guitarist Patrick Walker to perform on the dance floor.
Tyrolen consists of two main stages that are somewhat equal when it comes to size. What separates them is that the scene in the dance hall is located under roof, while the so-called Venedigscenen (The Venice Stage) is an outdoor stage. In this way, the two scenes complement each other and as a visitor you can easily move between them since the festival area is so small. The concerts take place alternately so you never have to miss a band if you stay in the area. When a band plays on one stage, the next concert is being prepared at the other, and this arrangement is of course absolutely superb if you compare it to other festivals where concerts often collide with each other and there are long distances to go between stages.
Patrick Walker
This artist started his career in Warning. A British Doom metal band formed in Harlow, Essex in the mid-90s. Patrick has since then also devoted himself to acting and the more personally engaged 40 watt sun where he writes all the music himself and uses hired musicians for the recordings. Here he performs only in the company of his steel-string guitar and the contrast to many of the classic Heavy Metal bands playing at the festival could hardly be any greater as Patrick's songs do not connect to the typical themes that characterize this genre. Instead of a collective raw and electric energy, Patrick offers his own highly personal expression. An expression that can be described as introverted and difficult but at the same time mesmerizing as Mr Walker has such a strong voice and stage presence. The performance is colorful and rich despite the melancholic tone and the only thing one can complain about is the timing. The set had undoubtedly become more atmospheric later in the evening. On the first day of a hard rock festival, the average hard rocker probably prefers to be occupied with careless headbanging rather than listening to depressing relationship problems. But that's just a guess. No scientific evidence has been collected just yet. In any case, the booking is interesting and the performance convincing despite the unfavorable placement in the program.
After this steel bath of British hardship, Tytan, Bloodstar and Riot City replace each other on the two stages while the area gradually fills up with more and more hungry hard rockers.
Another advantage of Muskelrock is the range of good food at decent prices. Both carnivores and vegetarians have something to choose from, and you rarely have to wait any longer to get your much-needed calories. Being at a festival takes a lot of energy and at Muskelrock there is always a slice of pizza or a plate of tacos within reach.
Screamer
When Screamer enters the stage it´s already eight in the evening and the temperature in the area is starting to rise significantly. Something that Skåningarna in Screamer manage well. Since the start in 2009, the band has been rather active, both when it comes to album releases and live performances, and it is noticeable that Screamer has built up a reputation for themself. The floor in front of the stage in the dance hall is packed from start and more people flock to it during the set. The audience is hungry for the goods and Screamer meets the need in an unforced way that testifies to routine and self-confidence. The band invites to a rough dance with material that is well matched for Muskelrock and together with a good audience contact, Screamer carries out the festival's sweatiest concert so far.
Kev Riddle's Baphomet
Next up is Kev Riddle's Baphomet who has the honor of playing on the Venice stage. The band, which is a pure cover band, was put together by Kev "Skids" Riddles a few years ago with the aim of performing old songs from the golden era of NWOBHM. (Mainly songs from the classic band Angel Witch in which Kev started his career.) The band consists of the same line-up as Tytan and just like many other bands with aged musicians, this orchestra is more fun to listen to than to watch. The performance is very stable thanks to Garry "Magpie" Bowler's tight drumming and Tony Coldham's powerful vocal performance and something truly happens when you hear immortal songs such as "Gorgon" presented by these gentlemen who were actually there when it all started. The conclusion of the gig is that young bands should dedicate themselves to writing good songs instead of just copying a sound. If they succeeded in that, it would probably be more fun to listen to new music, right?
Seven Sisters
Another band from the United Kingdom is Seven Sisters. The name is taken after a rock formation located nearby London and even if the band isn't as hard as chalk, it's a bit clever to name a rock band after a rock, isn't it? Their music sometimes has an epic and grandiose feeling where they seem to borrow inspiration from both classic domestic bands and German power/speed metal. The mix results in a rather idiosyncratic hybrid that leaves room for many enjoyable and interesting instrumental parts. It is in these parts that Seven Sisters shines the most and the band's joy of playing rubs off on the audience who attentively follow along with the twists and turns. The set is generous and generates an excited positive mood filled with hard rock endorphins.
Exciter
This first day at Muskelrock ends with Exciter playing just before midnight on the outdoor stage. The power trio from Canada is said to have many broken necks on their conscience and the band is undoubtedly one of the draws for this year's edition of the festival. With songs like "Heavy Metal Maniac" in the bag, nothing can go wrong, right? It feels like the arrangement with a late stage time would work in Exciter's favor and that the crowd by this hour should be refreshed enough to respond hard to the Canadians' punchy hard rock. Unfortunately, the gig turns out to be something of a disappointment. In retrospect, it is understandable that the singing drummer Dan Beehler has a hard time to muster the necessary intensity in both drumming and singing, but caught in the moment the concert still suffers from the fact that the vocals sometimes disappears and that the performance is not very tight. The total assault on the senses that was hoped for never gets past the halfway point and the audience is left with having seen a classic band that time seems to have overcome.
Friday
In addition to the fact that there are a lot of good bands to watch and listen to during the days of the festival, Muskelrock also offers a very good social climate. The atmosphere is cheerful and friendly and as a visitor it´s easy to feel at home even though the context is rather extraordinary. Many friendships are formed in this alternative reality which creates a beautiful added value to the experience of attending the fest. Sometimes such social gatherings are the reason to why bands are missed and on this second day we miss out on the first bands as we spend the morning down by the nearby lake, called Salen. A beautiful sanctuary where we take the first bath of the year and talk to people we've come to know.
Salen
If you cross the road that goes past Tyrolen and continue a little over the fields, you come down to a small bathing area where you can wash and gather strength for the evening. Sometimes this place becomes almost like its own little festival. The relaxed atmosphere invites interaction and nice meetings where yesterday's events are discussed and tips about which bands you should see later are shared between different groups of friends. In other words, it's easy to get stuck in this scenic spot and on this day we stay down there long enough to miss one of our favorite bands. Seeing Besvärjelsen at Muskelrock would have been great, as this collective always delivers good gigs, but we are still happy for everyone else who took the opportunity and who surely got a strong experience of the band's heavy stoner rock. Other bands playing early this day are Ström and Black Mask.
The lake Salen. (“The hall”)
Rapid
Instead of Besvärjelsen, the first band we´re seeing on this second day is Rapid from Finland. A band that offers a total kick of energetic blackened metal. The band is a trio, which colors the sound to some extent. In a live context, however, an accompanying guitar is not significantly missing as Vincent Revenge has adopted Lemmy's playing technique on the bass and Atte Nikku plays for two on his lone guitar. The drummer "The Goon" also does his best to stir up a raucous soundscape and together the band is praised for its effort.
Shaam Larein
When Spiral Skies starts their set on the outdoor stage it's time to eat something so the other band of the evening that we see and listen to actively is Shaam Larein from Stockholm. The band released their debut Lp "Sticka en kniv i världen" last year on Svart Records and in a relatively short amount of time they´ve succeeded in spreading their feverish gospel both here and there. The music can be described as dramatic doomy rock that uses the fact that they possesses three different singers efficiently. Their voices reinforce each other and against the background of an ominous accompaniment the music is woven together into an expressive whole that forces the listener into submission or rejection. There is no middle ground in sight and those who allow themselves to be seduced by these sirens will probably be hurt severely.
Mezzrow
The turn from Shaam Larein's opium-scented craziness to the old crossover band Mezzrow from Nyköping becomes quite sharp when these gentlemens appear in the sunshine out on the Venice stage. The guys play a spirited gig and get the most out of their material nevertheless. It´s noticeable that the band has been given a new spark, but it also becomes clear that this type of music is best suited to youth centers in the hands of angry kids with hormone surges.
Some local original Tyrolen visitor.
Wucan
The rough throws continue when Wucan from Dresden replaces Mezzrow's harmless thrash with fuzzy 70s rock on the dance floor. On record, Francis Tobolsky's voice sometimes comes out as a bit too much, but live it doesn't take over in the same way, which benefits the band. Wucan sounds heavier and better in the moment and the expression is playful in the same spirit as the role models. Jethro Tull is often mentioned as a reference, which is not surprising since the transverse flute also plays such a central role in Wucan's compositions, but there are more influences than that in the pot here, and on an evening like this the band stands confidently on its own merits. For those of you who like organic and well-played retro rock but haven't heard Wucan, a closer look might be a good tip.
Candlemass
Together with Exciter, Candlemass is probably the name on the bill that tickles the interest of the old guard the most. With a motley career behind them, these pioneers have in recent years gained more and more respect worldwide and those of us who have followed the band for a long time knows that this can be a magical experience. In other words, expectations are high, which is also due to Johan Längqvist's return to the band and the fact that Candlemass is playing its first gig at Muskelrock ever. Regardless of the outcome, we are facing a special opportunity to see the band and when Mappe Björkman enters the stage together with the opening riff of "Bewitched" you can't help but smile. Everyone who likes traditional Doom-Metal knows that Candlemass sits on a completely unique treasure of songs together with an inimitable expression, but that it can be this much fun to see the band and that they can sound so insanely good? One wishes more people knew what swing and what weight the band can bring to an evening like this. A big salute is hereby addressed to the magician who handled the sound because songs like "Samarithan" or "A Sorcerer's Pledge" have probably never sounded this good. Especially the guitars get a deep and warm fuzzy bottom that brings new life to the aged material and the band seems to enjoy the stage and the response from the spellbound audience. The set is based on early material and everything is performed as tight as one can only dream of. The high expectations are met with resounding success and when Candlemass ends with "Solitude", they have once again proven what a fantastic band we are dealing with. Class!
Please let me die in a crowd.
Deathhammer
Soon after Candlemass finishes their set, people start to make their way to the dance hall to witness Deathhammer from Norway. A band that, together with compatriots such as ex Condor, has tried their best to revive the fastest and rawest metal of the 80s. Something they do with great conviction and empathy without taking themselves too seriously. Quite refreshing when talking about Norwegian metal bands. In other words, having self-distance and at the same time taking their craft dead seriously is an art that Deathammer personifies without loosing any of the edge that their gloriously aggressive material possess. The tempo is insanely fast, which means that the contours of the riffs are mostly heard in the beginning of the songs. Otherwise, most everything merges into a wall of distortion where drums and vocals are what can be distinguished from the chaotic noice. It sounds exactly as it should, put in other words, and the audience shows their appreciation by acting properly violent. For a while there are quite a few feet in the air and if you don't act smooth, it can hurt a bit. The singer Seargent Salsten doesn't make things better by inciting the audience to act even more deranged, but there's still never a fight even if there's pushing and waving wildly in front of the stage. In other words, the interaction between the band and the audience works well and the concert as a whole is undoubtedly the sweatiest and most testosterone-fueled during the entire festival.
Demon Head
When Deathhammer has done its utmost to destroy the indoor stage, the clock has already passed midnight and the last band to play inside the festival area is Demon Head from Denmark. A relatively young band who still have been active for over a decade. The music sounds more like rock than metal and the band mixes the usual retro rock style with gothic elements which creates a slightly darker setting for the whole. The performance is professional and the band is pleasant to watch, but overall there´s a lack of songs that are engaging enough to lift the concert. There's nothing wrong with the ambition, though. The material simply lacks that little extra spice that makes some bands rise above the crowd.
Saturday
This last day of parties and concerts begins with an auction and tug of war against a tractor. We are a bit worn out from yesterday's experiences and decide to have a good rest at the campsite before it is time to tackle what is offered inside the festival area.
Tröjan/Taliön
The first band to check out is Tröjan. Another classic British band who, when it comes to album releases, haven't made much of a fuss. A typical Muskelock band in other words. As Tröjan, the band released only one debut Lp in the mid-80s and then re-emerged as Taliön a few years later. This new version then repeated the story of releasing a record and then shut down the business. However, both of these records are really enjoyable to listen to and it´s noticeable that the aged guys still carries flame within. The concert they rock out under a scorching sun is impressively spirited and one wonders if it´s really healthy for these old men to rock so hard? Strong!
Spell
The next band in the program is pretty easy to spell; Spell from Canada. An interesting booking with appealing esthetics. Musically, Spell is all about emotional progressive rock with a good drive and well written songs. Unfortunately, the vocals are not as strong as the material. Cam Mesmer's voice has a nice Geddy Lee vibe and suits the music well, but the ability to sing out and set the notes sways a bit which affects the overall impression. With a stronger vocal performance, the songs would´ve come into their own right in a different way. Aside from this detail, Spell do perform a solid gig and their musical approach is, as said, worth exploring and keeping your ears open for in the future.
Tyrann
Apart from the big names at this year's edition of Muskelrock, it´s probably Tyrann's debut performance that most visitors look forward to the most. Despite the fact that the constellation hasn´t existed for very long, they´ve already created a buzz around them and it´ll be very interesting to see if this interest will manage to grow outside the audience that gathers here at Muskelrock? Tyrann comes out as a band so extremely aligned with the average Muskelrock visitor that it makes you wonder if the band would even exist without this fest? What we are dealing with is, needless to say, a unit that does its best to sound exactly like the first wave of Swedish Heavy-Metal. The lyrics, which are performed in native Swedish tongue, depicts what it's like to be a hard rocker and states that others who don't get it should shut their mouths. A simple concept that is reflected in the songs that are equally straightforward and effective in their structures. Perhaps a bit too simple for this writer who finds it difficult to reach the same levels of enthusiasm as the multi-headed audience.
Regardless of this, it's fun to see the strong response Tyrann gets and the band does their songs justice with a performance that shows both confidence and stage experience. Something that may sound a bit contradictory, considering the fact that this is Tyrann's first appearance on stage? This riddle can easily be explained though by the fact that the faces of Tyrann have been seen before in other prominent bands such as Tribulation and Enforcer, to name a few. With this said, Tyrann proves to be a good live act this evening and the band is fun to watch even if their concept and sing along friendly material comes out as a bit calculated.
Wytch Hazel
Apart from Tyrann, the guys in Wytch Hazel are used to being on stage in Tyrolen. The band, which hails from Lancaster, has just released their fourth album "IV: Sacrament" and has thus once again made themselves relevant for Muskelrock where they´ve become a recurring feature. This however, is the first opportunity for this publication to take a closer look at these reversed heretics and it's clear that they feel at home here at Tyrolen and that the audience appreciates their work. As a Heavy-Metal band, these friendly hazelnuts stand out a bit as their lyrics often carries a religious message and the band appears on stage in bright robes. The Christian cross is also present as decoration on instruments and around the neck of, among others, singer and founder Colin Hendra. Despite the fact that the band does not market themselves as a Christian band, their bias is quite obvious which makes them something of an anomaly in this context. At least when it comes to this particular framing. Otherwise, the band relies mostly on a strong songwriting skills that exhibits the same fervor and uses the same musical influences as most of the other bands that are invited to play at Muskelrock. Their sincere approach to both music and faith is therefore met with due respect and Wytch Hazel receives a good response from a crowd that might not be in such good terms with the Holy Spirit as the band in question. And what would Jesus say about all this then? Well, a fair guess is that he sure would have appreciated the effort. (If he had chosen to attend the show instead of converting lost souls at the campsite, that is.)
Tribulation
After Wytch Hazel's courtly performance, it's time for something completely different as Tribulation takes on the outdoor stage. With inspiration from dark folk tales and the more extreme sub-genres of Heavy-Metal, the band has created its own place in the joint between gothic rock and Scandinavian black/death-metal, and what could be a better way to experience their craft on than a dim cold night like this? Tribulation instantly shows to possess both stage experience and a relaxed theatrical expression that enhances the songs when they are performed in the moment. The combination of musicality and sense of visual self-awareness ensures that everyone in the audience becomes part of the worlds that are animated from the stage where songs like "Melancolia" are performed with an eerie presence. Those of us who have followed the band know that it´s been a bit turbulent in terms of member changes, so it´s pleasant to see that the band still holds ground. Together, they make a fantastic performance that rests safely in an exciting discography that evokes a gothic darkness you gladly return to.
Arvikas finest; Tribulation!
Jonathan Hultén
As said, Tribulation has had some member changes over the years, and when one of the original members decided to quit the band, many of us wondered what would happen next? The band obviously survived this split and just after Tribulation made that clear, it was time for its dissident, Jonathan Hultén, to perform at the other main stage. In addition to his contributions as a guitarist and songwriter in Tribulation, this interesting artist also has proven to be a successful graphic designer. Something that shows immediately when he appears on stage. His stage costume are quite spectacular and it seems as if he is taken straight out of an old art-nouveau illustration or a Japanese surreal folktale. It's always fun to see performers do something extra and the costume is really effective in its expression. Unfortunately, it also seems to make communication a bit more difficult on stage which is noticeable when technology and sound messes things up. In the confusion that follows, some of the magic disappears and the concert therefore becomes a little skewed as a whole. However, Jonathan takes these minor blemishes with equanimity and when both music and performance hit the spot, this colorful event offers something really special. The music itself can be described as low-key, cautious and shy, but sometimes it´s also expressive and overwhelming. Most often, however, the emphasis is on the introverted plane and in these situations the performance tends to become somewhat soporific. Despite these remarks, the opportunity to see this extraordinary ensemble feels like a favor and if you like a somewhat stripped-down, naked expression, be sure to check out Jonathan's work.
Season of the Witch.
Firmament
When the gates to Tyrolen close for the night, an after-party is held in a circus tent located on the camping area. In this tent, a German band from Leipzig plays this last night. A band that released their debut LP earlier this year and together with the occasional cover, it is mainly songs from this work that the repertoire consists of. When we push into the tent, Firmament has already started their set, which in comparison to Mr Hultén's songs feels refreshingly energetic. The crowd is thoroughly drunk and some are doing their best to tear up the haycart the band is playing on. In other words, it's a really good atmosphere in front of the stage and not quite as packed as the first night when the tent was so full that we didn't even manage to get inside. Firmament's material fits the context perfectly and the band sounds really, really good. To do so well under such tumultuous circumstances is more than impressive and their own songs stand up well alongside classic songs from the likes of Judas Priest.
Although it is undoubtedly a strong collective effort, the band's singer must be highlighted as particularly convincing. Firmament makes, without a shadow of doubt, one of the best performances of the festival and if you have the opportunity to see this band live, don't hesitate. Rounding off this year's edition of Muskelrock, these rockers do their job with gusto and the concert will be one of many great memories to take home to everyday life.
Firmament, gives new meaning to the phrase “Hey, ho…let´s go!” Get it? Hey…ho, haha.
Some impressive acrobatic moves from the audience.
And that´s that! A big thank you goes out to everyone involved for another fine edition of the world's strongest festival!
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